Asscher Cut Engagement Rings

The Asscher cut is one of the few diamond shapes that divides attention between what the stone contains and what it reflects. Its stepped facets — arranged in concentric squares beneath an octagonal outline — direct light down through the stone rather than outward, creating the deep, hall-of-mirrors effect that distinguishes it immediately from the brilliant cuts that dominate most engagement ring collections. Named after the Amsterdam cutter Joseph Asscher, who patented the original design in 1902, the shape was a defining stone of the Art Deco period and has remained in serious circulation ever since. This collection of 384 rings is built around that cut — set as solitaires, with side stones, in halo designs, and alongside coloured accents — in gold or platinum, made to order in our Hatton Garden workshop.

The range extends well beyond colourless diamond. The Willow Ring With Sapphire Accents at £1,221 pairs an Asscher centre with flanking sapphires, while the Luxe Rhiannon Three Stone Sapphire Engagement Ring at £1,771 builds a three-stone composition around the same geometry. The Luxe Secret Garden Lab Emerald and Diamond Engagement Ring at £2,728 demonstrates how the cut handles a coloured centre stone — the stepped facets show off colour saturation in a way brilliant cuts do not. Certified diamonds, coloured diamonds or gemstones are available across the range.

Every ring in this collection is made to order and hallmarked at the London Assay Office before delivery. All diamonds above 0.10ct are independently certified by GIA, IGI or HRD. Each order includes complimentary insured UK delivery, free resizing for life, and a lifetime warranty against manufacturing defects.

What is an Asscher cut diamond?

An Asscher cut is a square step-cut diamond with cropped corners, producing an octagonal outline when viewed from above. Unlike round brilliants or cushion cuts, which use triangular and kite-shaped facets to scatter light outward, the Asscher's large rectangular step facets are arranged in rows parallel to the girdle. Light enters the table, reflects between parallel facet planes, and returns to the eye in a series of concentric square reflections — the effect known as the "hall of mirrors".

The modern Asscher cut retains the square outline and stepped facets of the original 1902 design but typically adds a higher crown, a smaller table, and additional facets — 74 facets in place of the classic 58 — producing a brighter result while preserving the characteristic depth. The Royal Asscher designation refers to the proprietary version developed and trademarked by the Asscher family; other cutters produce their own interpretations under the broader "Asscher" description. All versions share the defining geometry: step facets, high crown, clipped corners, and the deep optical well at the centre that no other cut replicates.

How an Asscher cut diamond looks on the hand

The Asscher cut sits lower on the finger than many square cuts because its weight is distributed downward into depth rather than across width. A 1.00ct Asscher measures roughly 5.5mm across, compared with approximately 5.5–6.0mm for a princess cut of the same weight — the difference is subtle, but the Asscher tends to look slightly more compact per carat than a brilliant cut of equivalent weight. What it sacrifices in spread it compensates for in visual interest: no other shape shows internal movement quite as clearly as the step-cut does.

Because the facet structure is open and architectural, the Asscher reads clearly even in low light. The clipped corners also reduce the angular sharpness of a fully square outline and produce a shape that, in certain settings, can read almost circular. Against the hand, the octagonal silhouette is distinctive without being eccentric — recognisable to those who know it, quietly unusual to those who do not. Its visual weight is front-facing; the ring reads directly rather than from the side.

Best settings for an Asscher cut diamond

The Asscher's cropped corners have a practical benefit: they reduce the vulnerability to chipping that affects pointed cuts such as princess and marquise. This makes it suitable for a wider range of settings. A classic four-claw solitaire works well, with claws placed at the corners of the octagonal outline. A bezel setting — where a continuous band of metal wraps the girdle — gives maximum corner protection and reads cleanly against the geometric outline of the stone.

Halo settings suit the Asscher particularly well when the halo follows the stone's octagonal shape rather than a round one; the Waverly Halo Diamond Engagement Ring at £1,548 demonstrates this proportion. A hidden halo, as in the Waverly Hidden Halo Diamond Engagement Ring at £1,417, keeps the geometric outline of the centre stone uncluttered from above while adding brightness at the shoulder. Three-stone settings are a natural fit — the step-cut centre reads as a considered choice alongside tapered baguette or trillion-shaped side stones, and the Luxe Rhiannon Three Stone Lab Emerald Engagement Ring at £1,705 illustrates how a coloured side stone complements the structured geometry of the main stone.

Choosing an Asscher cut: clarity and colour considerations

The Asscher's step facets offer no hiding place for inclusions. Where a round brilliant's triangular facets scatter light and conceal minor imperfections, the Asscher's open table is a window directly into the stone. For this reason, clarity is the specification that demands the most care. VS2 is widely considered the practical minimum for a clean-looking Asscher cut — inclusions in VS2 are minor and generally positioned outside the central facets. VVS1 or VVS2 gives more margin. SI1 is workable if the inclusion falls near the girdle rather than under the table; SI2 risks visible inclusions in a step cut where it would not in a brilliant.

Colour, by contrast, can be chosen with slightly more flexibility. The Asscher's depth and the way it returns light means it tends to retain warmth — a G or H colour in a white metal setting can read near-colourless, and an I or J colour in yellow or rose gold is often indistinguishable by eye from a higher grade. The Arden Diamond Ring with Lab Emerald Accents at £1,312 pairs a white diamond centre with green accents, where the contrast in colour temperature makes a near-colourless grade the right choice.

How much does an Asscher cut engagement ring cost in the UK?

Price is set by the centre stone's carat weight, its GIA, IGI or HRD grading, the metal, and the complexity of the setting. Within this collection, rings with coloured accent stones begin at £1,155 — the Willow Diamond Engagement Ring and the Nadia Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring both sit at that figure. More detailed settings with heavier stone weights move into the £1,500–£2,800 range; the Luxe Secret Garden Lab Emerald and Diamond Engagement Ring at £2,728 represents the upper end of this collection's standard range.

For context, the UK average engagement ring spend in 2026 is £2,247 (Bridebook). An Asscher cut in a well-proportioned solitaire setting with a VS2/G certified diamond in 18ct gold falls comfortably within that range. Lab-grown Asscher cuts offer a meaningful cost reduction over natural stones of equivalent grade — our collection includes both, and neither is presented as preferable; the choice is entirely personal.

Made to order at President Jewellers

Every ring in this collection is made to order in our Hatton Garden workshop. Lead time is 7–14 working days from order confirmation — simpler solitaire settings at the faster end, pavé shoulder work and intricate three-stone configurations towards fourteen days. The process begins with a CAD rendering of the ring; a silver or wax sample is then prepared for review at the workshop before any casting begins, so proportions and settings can be confirmed against the actual stone.

If you are bringing a loose Asscher cut diamond or coloured stone you have already sourced, the stone is delivered separately within 5–7 working days; the ring then follows the standard 7–14 working day schedule from the point the stone is confirmed. Hallmarking is at the London Assay Office, insured UK delivery is complimentary on every order, and resizing is free for life. Bespoke commissions and engraved pieces fall outside the 30-day return window — all other orders may be returned within 30 days of receipt.

Frequently asked questions

Is an Asscher cut diamond more expensive than other cuts?

Asscher cuts are not inherently more expensive than round brilliants, but they often carry a premium over other fancy cuts because the shape requires a larger rough diamond to produce a finished stone of a given carat weight — the deep pavilion and cropped corners involve more material loss during cutting. Round brilliants remain the most expensive shape in most markets due to demand and cutting complexity. Against princess, oval and cushion cuts, Asscher diamonds are broadly comparable in price, though availability of well-proportioned stones in larger sizes is more limited, which can push prices up at the higher carat weights.

What is special about an Asscher cut diamond?

The Asscher cut's defining characteristic is its optical depth. Unlike brilliant cuts, which are engineered to maximise the scattering of light outward, the Asscher's stepped facets direct light inward and downward, creating a series of concentric reflections visible through the table. This produces the "hall of mirrors" effect that no other cut replicates. The shape also carries a specific historical register — it was the cut of choice for Art Deco jewellery in the 1920s and 1930s — which gives it a character that more modern cuts do not share. For wearers who value geometry and depth over maximum brightness, it is the considered choice.

What cut is Meghan Markle's engagement ring?

Meghan Markle's engagement ring features a cushion-modified brilliant cut centre stone, not an Asscher cut. The two shapes are sometimes conflated because both are square or near-square with cropped or rounded corners, but their facet structures are entirely different. The cushion cut uses brilliant-style facets and returns light outward in a scattered, lively pattern; the Asscher's step facets create the deeper, more composed reflection described above. If the cushion's softer outline is what appeals, this collection is worth comparing directly against our wider engagement ring range.

Is an Asscher cut diamond rare?

Asscher cuts represent a small fraction of overall diamond production — the majority of cut diamonds globally are round brilliants, and most remaining production goes to other fancy shapes such as oval, princess and pear. Within step cuts, emerald cuts are produced in significantly higher volumes than Asschers. A well-proportioned Asscher in a larger size, particularly above 2.00ct, is genuinely difficult to source in natural diamond; lab-grown Asscher cuts are more readily available at all sizes. Our team can advise on current stock and typical lead times for specific specifications before you commit to a design.

How long does an Asscher cut engagement ring take to make?

From order confirmation, lead time is 7–14 working days. A straightforward solitaire or side-stone setting with a Asscher centre in a standard metal and size will be at the faster end of that range. Pavé shoulders, bespoke shank profiles, multi-stone arrangements and non-standard metal combinations move towards fourteen days. The schedule includes CAD design, a sample review at the Hatton Garden workshop, casting, setting, hand-finishing, polishing, and hallmarking at the London Assay Office. Insured UK delivery is included in every order and is tracked to receipt.

Can I choose a coloured gemstone as the centre stone in an Asscher cut?

Yes. The Asscher cut is well suited to coloured stones — the open step facets show colour saturation clearly and evenly, making it one of the better cuts for sapphires, emeralds, and other gems where colour is the primary characteristic. Several pieces in this collection are built around that approach: the Willow Ring With Lab Emerald Accents and the Petite Luxe Twisted Vine Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring at £1,548 both use coloured stones alongside diamond accents. Bespoke centre stone selection — including specific sapphire or emerald sourcing — is available via consultation at the Hatton Garden workshop.