Salt and Pepper Natural Fancy Diamonds

Salt and pepper diamonds are natural diamonds — the same crystalline carbon as a colourless brilliant — chosen for their inclusions rather than in spite of them. The white inclusions read as salt, the black as pepper, scattered through the stone like ink dropped in water. Each one is unique. President Jewellers hand-selects salt and pepper diamonds from independent UK lapidaries and sets them into bespoke engagement rings in our Hatton Garden workshop. The result is an heirloom ring that looks like nothing else.

What makes a salt and pepper diamond

Every diamond contains inclusions — minute traces of carbon, mineral, or stress fractures locked in during the diamond's formation deep in the earth's mantle billions of years ago. Conventional diamond grading penalises inclusions; the clarity scale runs from FL (flawless) down through SI (slightly included) and I (included). A salt and pepper diamond is technically an I1, I2 or I3 — but the inclusions are evenly distributed across the stone and visually balanced, giving the diamond a constellation-like character rather than a flaw. They are 100% natural. They are not lab-grown, not treated, not colour-enhanced.

Why couples are choosing them

Three reasons drive the salt and pepper trend in 2026. Affordability. A 1.5ct salt and pepper diamond in 18ct gold starts at approximately $1,850 — about a quarter of the price of a comparable 1.5ct G/VS1 colourless diamond. Uniqueness. No two stones are alike — each one has a distinct inclusion pattern, like a fingerprint. Ethics. Salt and pepper diamonds are typically rough that traditional cutters would have polished away or discarded; using these stones rescues material that would otherwise have been waste. They sit naturally alongside ethically-cut, traceable supply chains.

Shapes — rose cut, hexagon, kite, pear

Salt and pepper diamonds suit shallower, less faceted cuts that show the inclusions clearly without trying to hide them. Rose cut — domed crown, flat back, the oldest diamond cut, perfect for displaying internal character. Hexagon — geometric, modern, popular for solitaires. Kite — elongated four-sided shape, distinctive for east-west settings. Pear and oval — soft brilliant cuts that work for both centre stones and accents. Emerald cut — step-cut, gives the salt and pepper a window-pane look that lets the inclusions read as artwork.

Settings — bezel and bezel-prong dominate

Salt and pepper diamonds are I1-I3 clarity, which means the inclusions are part of the stone's structural geometry. A bezel setting — a continuous metal rim around the stone — protects the girdle and lets the stone sit flush. A bezel-prong (prongs visible from the top, rim around the underside) gives the same protection with a more open profile. Both are how independent UK designers set salt and pepper diamonds. President Jewellers makes both in platinum, 18ct yellow, white and rose gold, and 9ct gold.

Bespoke process — Hatton Garden, 7 to 14 business days

Every salt and pepper engagement ring at President Jewellers is made bespoke. You select your stone — either from our hand-selected inventory or sourced specifically for you from our network of UK lapidaries. We produce a CAD design for your approval. A silver or wax sample is made for you to try on, refining fit and proportions. We cast in your chosen metal, set the stone, finish and polish, and submit to the London Assay Office for hallmarking. The whole process runs 7 to 14 business days from sample approval. Free lifetime resizing where the setting permits. Free insured UK delivery.

Frequently asked questions

Are salt and pepper diamonds more expensive?

No. Salt and pepper diamonds are significantly more affordable than equivalent colourless diamonds because they are graded as included (I1, I2, I3) on the standard clarity scale. A 1ct salt and pepper diamond in the UK in 2026 costs approximately $950-$1,850 depending on cut and character; a 1ct colourless diamond at G/VS1 costs $5,300-$8,600. The lower price reflects clarity grading, not lower quality — the stones are 100% natural diamond and rank 10 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Is salt and pepper diamond a real diamond?

Yes. Salt and pepper diamonds are 100% natural diamonds — pure crystalline carbon formed in the earth's mantle, the same material as any colourless brilliant. The 'salt' and 'pepper' refers to natural white and black inclusions trapped inside the stone during formation. They are not lab-grown, not coated, and not treated. They register 10 on the Mohs hardness scale identically to all natural diamonds.

Do salt and pepper diamonds scratch easily?

No. Salt and pepper diamonds rank 10 on the Mohs hardness scale, the same as any diamond — they are harder than any other natural gem. They do not scratch easily and will not be marked by everyday wear. The only material that can scratch a diamond is another diamond. Salt and pepper diamonds can, however, chip at the girdle if struck on a hard surface — like any diamond, but somewhat more so where inclusions intersect the surface. A bezel setting (a continuous metal rim) protects against this and is our most-recommended setting for everyday wear.

Are salt and pepper diamonds sparkly?

Salt and pepper diamonds sparkle differently from clear brilliants. They show the high refractive index and dispersion that all diamonds have — so light still flashes and breaks into colour — but the inclusions interrupt the light path, giving a softer, scattered sparkle rather than the bright pop of a flawless brilliant. Rose-cut salt and pepper diamonds shimmer like a dark constellation; emerald-cut salt and pepper diamonds have a windowpane glow. Sparkle is present, but it is character-driven rather than fire-and-ice.

What is a poor man's diamond?

The phrase historically referred to white sapphire, white topaz, white zircon, moissanite, and cubic zirconia — all colourless gems that visually resemble diamonds at a fraction of the price. Salt and pepper diamonds are sometimes loosely called 'poor man's diamonds' because of their lower price point — but unlike the others, they are 100% real natural diamond, with the same hardness and chemistry. A salt and pepper diamond is a genuine diamond chosen for its character; it is not a substitute material.

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